More than 60% of all Icelanders live in Reykjavík, while the whole country has about as many people as Grodno, one regional capital back home in Belarus. It is the northernmost capital of a sovereign state, and the entire centre is easily covered on foot.









Museums, but Not as You Know Them
For a city this size, Reykjavík has a surprising number of museums, and the selection is particular. The Punk Museum occupies a former underground public toilet on the main street. There is a whale museum with life-size models, a northern lights museum and a maritime one. I went for the most talked-about of them all.
That Museum
The Phallological (!) Museum of Reykjavík holds a collection of several hundred specimens covering practically every mammal of Iceland, marine and terrestrial. If you have never seen one, this is what the walrus version looks like 😀. Over a metre long and with an actual bone inside, it makes you reconsider a well-known Russian idiom (untranslatable; ask a Russian-speaking friend) 😀.


Horses rank as mid-table here, and bears are simply dwarfs.








Is Reykjavík worth a separate day before the ring road? One day, most certainly.